Great Dividing Range Australia Top to Bottom | Part 4 - Moto Trekkin

Great Dividing Range Australia Top to Bottom | Part 4

It has taken a while for us to get the next message out, things are pretty hectic on the trail! This one covers our journey from Atherton (previous message) to the Cape.

Trip is going real well, seems like we have been on the road for months, so much crammed into a short time. 

We had spent an extra day at Atherton with the mechanics getting the DR attended to. After a day test ride turned out the rough running was just altitude issues and the mechanic was disappointed that I didn’t want him to pull the motor out. He didn’t realise that all you have to do is add fuel and air in the right proportions and away you go.

We were happy that the delay gave us the chance to refuel our energy stocks with a KFC bucket.

We came across some puddles, then the road started to improve until we hit the mud … 15 kms of red wet sloppy mud to be precise. After the red mud came the grey mud which wasn’t as slippery but the water crossings started coming. Mark tried to take the KLR around and got stuck, the very next crossing he tried going straight through and hit a submerged rock throwing him sideways where he ended up pinned under the big KLR up to his neck in water… Bondi Rescue required adventure biker style!

After a brief “Capt’n Cook” around Cooktown we headed for the Lions Den hotel near the CREB track where we hoped to dry out (clothes that is). We ran into 13 guys on a bike tour to the Cape with Cape York Adventures with Roy. We gave them an exaggerated gee up about what lay ahead for them … as they also did for us.

We couldn’t do the CREB because of the rain so we decided to do the now 4WD friendly Bloomfield Track to Daintree which is a beautiful ride through the rainforest.

Stayed in a seedy motel in Cairns where we laid up for a couple of days, washed all our gear (and spread it out over the whole motel grounds to dry out), rehydrated and booked the bikes in for a service and some more new rubber. The bikes had been going pretty well with a couple of things like lighting & horn gone and some loose grips on the KLR and a broken subframe on the DR.

Once again it was comforting to know Mum was keeping tabs, within 10 mins of arriving at the Cairns motel, mum rang “have you been for a swim in the motel pool yet” … And Mum for your info that building in Cairns is no longer a brothel it has changed to a motorbike shop, so don’t worry. (just kidding).

We had a great time in Port Douglas catching up with our families (a fair trade off for letting us go on this extended adventure). While the time with loved ones was fantastic and the rest did us well, the only problem was that for the week our calorie output had reduced significantly with the calorie input increasing … for the unscientific of you this means we added a few kilos each!

After picking up the bikes from their TLC at Leonards Bike store (and our credit cards once again suffering more cuts and bruises than their offroading owners) we headed back to Port Douglas, packed up and then headed through Black Mountain Road down to Kuranda and then Cairns.

It was then down the highway via Mission Beach and arriving at Flying Fish Point which is a nice little fishing village on the beach near Innisfail that was as humid as anywhere we have been … ever!

It was also at Flying Fish Point where we had the best fisherman’s basket ever and taught the 16 yr old bar tender how to put limes into Carona Beers… we were patient trainers and he got pretty good at it after serving us about 12 beers.

Next day we headed further south stopping for an Indian curry lunch at Cardwell that “was almost worth the wait”, voted at Ingham (by the way who won?) and restocked before heading bush again.

We headed west toward Mt Fox and the sunset closing in on the dark mountain range which was gaining height the closer we got… we couldn’t see any easy way through and the great dividing range began looking like a huge rock tsunami that was going to wipe us out.! Of course there is always a way through and we were treated to a narrow winding bitumen section to get us to the top. We were back where we loved to be … nowhere much!

We camped that night on the banks of a dry creek bed (Star Rv) with the sounds of kookaburras, lorikeets, plovers, bats and cockatoos all chirping, laughing and squawking … annoying the shit out of us actually.

They settled down after a while and sitting around the fire it got so quiet that we could once again hear dingos or wolves faintly howling in the far away hills … after a while we worked out the wolves were actually Mark’s fuel tank valve letting air in as the temperature dropped!

They settled down after a while and sitting around the fire it got so quiet that we could once again hear dingos or wolves faintly howling in the far away hills … after a while we worked out the wolves were actually Mark’s fuel tank valve letting air in as the temperature dropped!